Saturday, January 19, 2008
Petite Annonce
Wayyy past my Haiti bedtime.
I’m sitting at my computer with 24 internet browser windows open. That’s what you do when you have no clue when your internet is going to cut off and you just found out where you’re potentially going to spend the next 2 + years of your life.
I got my Peace Corps assignment.
I was waiting for the e-mail in my box. Earlier today I’d had my heart-to-heart phone call with my Peace Corps placement officer, while sitting outside on the front steps of Fonkoze, the Director looking for a budget from me. I'd been nervous about the call for most of the week. I cajoled the placement officer into believing that I’m ready to give up a few details of Americana in the big move. She was ultimately quite satisfied and told me she'd send my official invitation (the country assignment!) by snail mail today. Since patience is no strong suit of mine, I negotiated for e-mail and instant gratification instead. When I saw her message tonight, before opening it I tried to give myself a last reassuring pep talk that I could handle and be successful in any country… but instead tore straight into the e-mail.
So the pieces fall together. A dear friend from Clemson there, a New York Times write-up on it, a friend of the family who ended his service there and is violently opposed to the program. The cherry on this sundae of Africana: my next door neighbors here in Haiti—yep, they’re from there too.
It’s the furthest I could possibly be from Louisiana—in both latitude and longitude, hardly even in West Africa. Not even fully French! Part former British, former French colony. There was more than a 50% chance my assigned country would be one in which MCC (my former employer in days of Washington glory) works. Nope. So I’m pushed out of the minimal comfort zone I’d developed in my mind. Good—I won’t be anyone special and I’ll have the typical and classic PC experience. (I would have been sooooo well connected in Mali.)
Loo loo loo loo looooo :) (little typewriter noise)
Here’s a hint. It starts with a C and ends with an Ameroon!!!
I’m assigned to Cameroon!!!!!
Whewwwwwwwwwww!
Now I actually have to decide upon, confirm, and accept my invitation. I plan to say yes after a few more questions to the placement officer to at least hold my spot. This is exactly what I needed to know before I started any serious discussion about a potential permanent employment with Fonkoze! Time to go to Brazil!!!
(Yes, I am skipping off to Brazil for 10 days. :) I have to make up for having missed Mardi Gras every year since I left Louisiana at age 18. So I get two Carnivals this year: Rio de Janeiro + Port-au-Prince! I should mention I have friends traveling there, one native Portuguese speaking, and a place to stay!! Yippee to making major life decisions on a beach!!)
*****
January 21, 2007
PS - I had my first taste of Haitian Carnival last night--WHOA!! Five minutes from my house, still more than two weeks away from Mardi Gras, this place makes New Orleans Mardi Gras look a semi-civilized town-hall meeting. Streets are PACKED! The music is so loud it shakes the windows of my house and makes my internal organs rattle--no lie--like an unrequested deep-tissue massage. And only two no-thankyou-I-really-don't-know-how-to-dance-like-a-Haitian speeches (more like lots of gesticulating and YELLING!!)
Friday, January 18, 2008
Stats 101: extremely methodological
- Number of get-out-of-the-way-or-be-a-pancake honks per ten minutes of walking on a Haitian road: 10
- Average # of tablespoons of peanut butter I eat a day: 4 -5 big ones. It’s REALLY good here!
- Number of times I wash my hair per week: ‘bout 2 (I still brush and floss teeth regularly!)
- Average age to start sending kid to school: probably about 3, or the Haitians are just stunted and TINY! (If you can afford school, send ‘em as soon as possible before $ runs out cause it’s not free in
- Average cost for box of imported healthy bran cereal: 6 + US dollars
- Cost for a mug of coffee off the street: 14 cents
- Cost for 1 pint olive oil: $10
- Cost for a gallon of gas: about $6
- Cost for roughly a gallon of milk (imported in BOXES from
- Cost for a bottle of good Argentine red wine: < $4 (yay!!!)
- Number of spray bottles of deet I consume per month: 3/4
- Number of cell phone card vendors per 10 minute walk outside in
- Age I probably resemble when I speak Creole: about 6 by now! And this is how I request technical accounting procedures…nice!
- Cost of a can of black beans (available at most American groceries for 59 cents): $2
- Cost for a bag of uncooked black beans that will make a
- Number of times I have successfully cooked the cheap black beans: 0/2
(The first bean bake fiasco almost resulted in burning down my apartment in
Yes, I did used to work at Census Bureau, source of all things statistical. Can you tell?!
Saturday, January 12, 2008
Peace Corps and Mauritania Madness
Wow! Check out this article by the former head of the Peace Corps for
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/09/opinion/09strauss.html?_r=2&oref=slogin&oref=slogin
All this said, I read this article within 5 minutes of hearing from a dear friend who just finished her 2 years of PC, also in
The Peace Corps placement officer (responsible for picking the country where I would potentially spend the next 2+ years) is currently DRILLING me on why I don’t want to go to
A little more entertainment for ya! This article sure left its impact on me. Fatty in
I also told the PC placement officer (I had limited internet, had to respond fast, and just went with straight honesty!) that my athletic involvement is synonymous with community involvement. It’s true. I made friends and contacts, and sure learned more about France and the French when I played on my university’s rugby team there! I told PC it would be a waste to both me and the Peace Corps if they sent me to a place where there was no way a girl could kick a ball/putter around on a field somewhere. I’m not asking to go to the Olympics, and am ready to make some serious lifestyle changes, as I already have in
That said, my friend Charles talked to the soccer team of a local university here where he teaches and plays ball. They said I can play with them. :) I might be asking for a real wupping here—I’m not in running shape! Haitians are also intense on the soccer field—no call goes uncontested and passionate arm-flailing arguments are apparently the norm. It’ll be good for my Creole. :)
Saturday, January 5, 2008
Fun with Pictures: Happy New Year!
The first was the chance to host an amiga
What I really appreciated about Ellie’s visit was bouncing ideas off of someone who has been in similar situations in rough countries, being the obvious minority assumed to have lots of money. When I first arrived here I aimed to lay low, keep my head down, go about my business. Hide myself away and hope no one noticed me. In talking with Ellie and meeting other blan Americans she knows here, I realize it’s ridiculous to think that everyone and their brother doesn’t already recognize me as the sole blan of the neighborhood, and know where I live, whether I know them or not. So why try and hide when I’d rather embrace being here. In reality, I think I am safer this way, as the Haitians watch out for those they know, those who are a part of their neighborhoods or lives, even if that’s just a smile and bonjou as you go past.
From Ellie’s visit:
Ellie with our feast of roadside food (I realize it does not look like a feast in this picture. We were hungry!) She helped me discover some great vendors right out my front door! My apt, and
Are those flags flying in the background?! No no, just my undies in the backyard.
My neighbor Lovelyn’s Christmas present, babydoll Lovena, sitting on my clean laundry. Even white dolls can have dreadlocks!
Lovelyn (with cornflake dribble on chin), mwen, Lovena (her clothes were reportedly dirty at the time), Ellie
Other cool event: Camping on the beach on the southern coast, over New Year’s/my birthday--really not much explanation needed! It was ideal. Ocean stars ocean stars ocean stars. And cremas! You can already see the stars here in Port au Prince, but looking out over the edge of the mini-cliff that was our campsite and into the night sky is almost addictive, where you can just stand lost in your thoughts for ages, with the sound of waves crashing below. A new year + a change of scenery spurs plenty contemplation. And the cremas. J It’s certainly one of my new
I got to swim everyday. I can’t say I’ve ever been surrounded by as much quiet as when I’d dive under the surface and towards the blue deep. It’s so incredibly peaceful (especially compared to the non-stop rara and music of downtown PAP!) Coming back up to the surface to break through to fresh air and blinding sun—feels like entering another world.
The people make all the difference in any good celebration, and I wasn’t let down. J The crowd at the campsite was mixed Haitian and American, from different places and backgrounds. Like in DC, in
Camping Pics: Pooja and me at the campsite, eaaaaaarly into the long New Years night!
My friend Charles the well-dressed pirate.
… but I don’t think real pirates wear yellow. Just out of range of this pic is a 40 foot rock cliff I jumped off of… :)
The campsite owner, a Haitian dude, is at least as much of a character as my Uncle Chris.
A deep last thought: Spotted on a T-shirt at a roadside market en route to the South: CAMPING: A great excuse to eat beans and not shave.
Yeah!
Now I go into super-rural central
So happy 2008 to all my dear friends and family—I hope you find what you are seeking, or at least learn from the search.
~KMonday, December 31, 2007
Happy Independence Day, Haiti
I’ve wanted to come to Haiti since 2003. I first heard of an opportunity to volunteer here with a group from Clemson. I was living in France at the time the trip was first proposed, and I immediately knew I wanted to go. I remember thinking “I’ve had a chance to see Europe, and these beautiful developed countries. I need to see how the rest of the world lives.” And that twitch never went away.
The trip was scheduled for the second week in March, 2004. I made plans, raised money, and bought the plane tickets to come. Meanwhile rebels were ravaging the North of Haiti, and civilians were erecting roadblocks around the capital, just blocks from where I live now and buy my roadside pikles. Foreigners were supposedly getting kidnapped from the airport right and left. About ten days before my group was to leave, Haiti’s president, Jean-Bertrand Aristide, was taken from his home in the middle of the night by American and Haitian security forces.
My trip to Haiti was canceled and the group went to rural Kentucky instead. Meanwhile in Haiti… the situation deteriorated. Since then, my curiosity has expanded. Not just to “Why is Haiti so poor?” But also to “Why is Haiti so violent and unstable?”
I just finished my sixth book/movie on the subject of Haiti, An Unbroken Agony. I’d bought the book because I wanted an accurate recent history of the country, the unclear events of 2004 through the present day, and I’d stumbled upon it at my favorite trusted local bookstore in DC. In Haiti today you’ll still get very different opinions depending on whom you talk to regarding former President Aristide, his ouster, and the surrounding political violence that has wracked the country. Sorting out the facts is an on-going project for me.
The book made me so angry I had to put it down and walk away—twice.
What made me so angry? My own government. George Bush, Colin Powell, Condeleeza Rice. The wealthy Haitian elite who live in such a stratified world that it’s unimaginable to them to share in the plight of 90% of their country. The American media that continuously distorts, inaccurately reports, or completely neglects the events in Haiti—part of the reason I never know what to take as fact or fiction.
Let me give you a few examples, quotes from the book, of what set me off.
On Class:
Carl Frobrum, 74, was a fair-skinned society columnist, socialite, and longtime prominent member of South Florida’s community of upwardly mobile Haitian professionals. When his well-to-do peers demanded that Aristide resign his presidency, Fobrum would not go along with them: “I was called a traitor to my class.”
The book describes in detail, based on eye-witness accounts, the events surrounding the kidnapping of President Aristide on February 29, 2004. The book’s author Randal Robinson, along with US Congresswoman Maxine Waters, a Jamaican Parliamentarian, and others flew half-way around the globe to convince the President of the Central African Republic (CAR) to release Aristide and his wife (who is actually an American citizen.) The Aristides were being held indefinitely in this remote and unstable country.
When Senator Waters arrived to speak with President Bozize of the Central African Republic, he asked,
“Do you have a letter from President Bush?”
For a long moment, the room was completely quiet.
“Mr. President, I do not represent President Bush. We are supportive of President Aristide, but this is not true of everyone in the United States.”
For the first time, the Bozize’s expression changed. He looked down at his hands and then straight at Waters. He said two words in French. The meaning in his tone arrived before Aristide’s translation.
“Eh bien” –well—his voice marked with reluctance—he proceeded to confess what we already knew—that he had agreed to detain President Aristide as a favor to the French and the Americans.
“I would have to ask the French who asked me to let Aristide be here. I would have to ask the Americans. Without discussing it with them, I couldn’t just let them go, you understand.”
Colin Powell, Donald Rumsfeld, the works, deny having anything to do with Aristide’s removal from Haiti, which is a load of ****. It was a skillfully orchestrated maneuver, which even included the American media showing footage after the abduction of Aristide, departing on a plane in broad daylight, waving to a crowd. Aristide was in reality taken at gunpoint in the middle of the night in an unmarked plane, which then provided false information to customs officials in Antigua. American personnel on board the plane refused to allow Antiguan customs officials onto the plane for inspection, when it stopped there to refuel en route to CAR. The plane’s personnel later reported that Aristide had met with government officials in Antigua. Not only did the Aristides not even know they’d stopped in Antigua, they were neither allowed off of the plane there nor informed of their destination until moments before arriving in the CAR.
The author states beautifully the conclusions I had come to long before the end of this book:
Lastly, the evidence decisively showed that the United States, with the assistance of France, methodically undermined the political and economic stability of Haiti before abducting its democratically elected president and overthrowing its democratically elected government.
Owing to an extreme imbalance of power and influence between the small middle-income countries of the Caribbean region and the large industrialized nations of North America and Western Europe, calls from Caribbean leaders for an official investigation of the events of the early morning hours of February 29, 2004, were ignored.
The people of the democratic Caribbean were forced, due to their ironic proximity to democratic America, to accept certain realities.
As between the big and the small (i.e., the rich and the poor) nations of the world, there exist no checks and balances. No fair panel of last resort, no higher court before which to petition for recourse, no hierarchy of enforceable rights, no scheme of natural equity or fairness. As long as one member of the global family of nations is free to behave toward a fellow member nation with lethal impunity—to bully, to menace, to invade, to destabilize politically or economically, to reduce to tumult—no country, so threatened, can hope to enjoy the social and political contentment that ought inherently to attend democratic practices.
Since Haitian slaves won their independence from France in 1804, the United States has loomed over Haiti like the sword of Damocles. The record of this abuse of power is well-known to the steadfastly democratic, English-speaking Caribbean nations that have little choice but to heed the chilling implications of this for their own survival. Their leaders have learned the hard way that, within their well-managed tropical island states, no election verdict, no constitutional custom or habit, no parliament’s decision, no ordinary citizen’s commonplace prerogative is safe from an intrusive America whose caprices and policies are neither fairer, nor more predictable, nor more morally conscionable than the vagaries of hurricanes.
My mission of gathering the facts on Haiti and my dear US government is far from over, but I took a moment to write to the author to thank him for the book.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Christmas in Haiti
Christmas—about 3:30am!
Fonkoze’s deputy director, Alexandre, had earlier offered to take me out on Christmas Eve. I’m always curious to see how other cultures celebrate their big holidays. But when I hadn’t heard from him by 8:15 tonight, Christmas Eve, I was in my pajamas, in the process of making something weird with peanut butter and the army-sized container of oatmeal I had treated myself to for Christmas. Once my hands are completely immersed in peanut butter glop, Alexandre calls. “I’ll pick you up at nine, ok?” “Great, thanks, uh Alexandre, what do I …” click dial tone. Not only do I not know what to wear but I have no idea what we are doing.
The last time I went out with Alexandre it was with his wife and two small children and we went to see handicapped kids in Santa Clause hats riding horses on a Saturday afternoon. At this event, I had somehow ended up participating in a relay race where I ran with a raw egg on a spoon and jumped over horse hurdles. (I am not joking! Thank goodness for high school track.) So I’m expecting some more good clean family fun.
Alexandre had earlier mentioned going to mass. I’m hoping for a serene midnight mass, lit with candles, like the ones I loved from my childhood. Midnight mass is the ideal chance for a meditative moment with yourself (especially if you don’t understand what’s going on in Creole!) and to let your mind wander to everything it needs to contemplate, potentially even including the Baby Jesus/his virgin birth. So I put on a dress for the event. And my chacos.
Christmas Eve in Haiti is no serene lull of midnight masses, shivers, and thoughts on faith or the year to come.
The streets are packed with pedestrians and the clubs are blasting in full force! No one is staying at home. We made a first stop at a semi-family party, ate pikles (pick-leez), griot, and bananes pesés (smooshed and deep-fried plantains, tasting mildly like cardboard.) I love the pikles though—spicy carrots and cabbage, which you put on top of everything. I’ve learned that most all parties in Haiti are family parties. Most ppl live with their parents for a long time, so parties will inevitably be… at your parents’ house! Which means the invitees are ages 5 – 65. (Totally unlike my usual DC-party age range of roughly 23 – 33.) This does not stop the mamas from serving their little daughters kiddy-size wine—out of a shot glass!
The next stop of the evening was home to the AWKWARD MOMENT award winner of the month! I got plaqué-d next to a dude I didn’t realize at the time was in fact Alexandre’s cousin. But he kinda creeped me out. Shortly after our arrival, Alexandre disappeared at the party and I didn’t know a soul there but him.
So the Creepy sitting next to me starts asking me questions in sorta-English. I should mention here that I have a bit of a noise meter, and I get really embarrassed when people I’m with are YELLING in public. (Yes, Dad, this is coming from the kid you often had to remind of inside voices :) And Creepy is YELLING when I am sitting a foot away from him—less by the time he’s leaned/leered my way. As if I weren’t already the painfully obvious sole blan foreigner, the sorta-English shouting is attracting plenty stares. Please, I ask him, you don’t have to yell, I can hear you very well!
I must have asked him about six times to PLEASE, je t’en prie, I BEG of you, stop yelling! Maybe he was deaf and didn’t realize it? “When you yell at me everyone stares. It’s very embarrassing.” Maybe I was the dumb foreigner who couldn’t speak Creole, and therefore needed to be yelled at so that I could understand? I have worked with many people who seem to think this strategy works… (nope!) This went on for oh… about 2.5 hours.
Normally I’d flit around and talk to anyone else. I didn’t feel comfortable plopping down in the midst of a family I didn’t know without introduction, though, to escape! I also don’t like speaking French to people who don’t know me, I feel like it comes across as bougie snob foreigner, there’s a bit of a stigma about that here. I definitely should have used the bathroom escape trick. Hallelujah when Alexandre came back to the table, asked how I was, and I only hesitated once before I pulled out the “I’m tired” card. It was after 2am…
End of Awkward Moment Report.
Next day—Christmas night
I’m happy to report Christmas today was smashing. J When I got up at 2pm today, I treated myself to my peanut butter concoction from the night before. I though of it as the healthy substitute for my mom’s wonderful Christmas coffee cake and brought some of it over to my friend/co-worker Shaila’s. I love that I celebrated Christmas with a Bangladeshi Muslim, at her swimming pool—not like I’m used to White Christmases is Louisiana anyway! (This + last night’s debacle tops Christmas karaoke with the Korean girls in France!) Even though last night was awkward/slightly painful, I never regret a new experience. Then I went by to say hi to my Cameroonian neighbors, who generously fed me, and the kids all showed off their dolls. Chouchou, the 4-yr old boy, couldn’t seem to decide whether to name his baby doll Lalula or Lolita. My little Haitian neighbor Lovelyn had accordingly named her new doll Lovena—I love that kid!
Christmas bisous to everyone!!! My dear family, have some rum for me on the 28th at the pig roast (as I have definitely had enough griot—the deep-fried pig pieces that are a Haitian favorite—for all!) love,
K :)
Sunday, December 16, 2007
Pictures!
I had my camera out today to take a picture of the most recent victim of my peanut butter habit. (Yes, I eat a LOT of peanut butter here!) Just in case you missed it, or hadn’t realized you were in the PEANUT BUTTER AISLE of the grocery store, this vendor put a picture of the peanut butter container on the label of that same peanut butter container. A little trippy. Like I said, I love Haitian art.
AND, it turns out I have an artist next door! When my little neighbors Katilyn and Lovelyn bounced over today, Katilyn picked up my camera. I thought she did some great work for her first time ever with a camera!! Here ya go for some photo documentary of me in
But first, The peanut butter!


Lovelyn workin it on my computer.

Trying to check my e-mail with a Lovelyn on my lap…


Katilyn and Lovelyn. And yep, that’s my exercise ball.
Me pointing to my eyes to tell Katilyn that the “eye” of the camera has to look at me for it to take a photo. While mastering this concept, she took a lot of pictures of ceiling, floor, my ugly feet…
More computer 101
Me telling Katilyn that to take the picture, “turn it like this and push the button!”
Lovelyn and Katilyn. Look at that protective big sister :)
Tonight is a FREE WYCLEF JEAN Concert! It’s a 5 minute walk from my house to the concert, on the lawn of the Presidential Palace, the Champ de Mars. For those of you in other generations who don’t know the ‘Clef, he’s
OK, I’m back from Wyclef, and went to an American friend’s Christmas party afterwards, then scored myself an invite to somebody’s cousin’s BAPTISM tomorrow! I love family celebrations. Fortunately (since it’s now 2:30am) I don’t have to wake up early for the church part, but get to go afterwards for the food and drink and drink and food part. Perfect!!